Ely, rising from the Fens

There are two reasons I’ve always wanted to visit Ely Cathedral. Firstly, for its famous Octagon Lantern. Secondly, because it was here that, in 1973, Leonard Bernstein conducted a now-legendary performance of Mahler’s Resurrection Symphony.

Of course, there are many other reasons to visit Ely itself — as we discover during a leisurely stroll through this small Cambridgeshire city by the River Great Ouse. Not least of which is its fascinating history and geography.

For Ely, founded in 673 by the East Anglian princess St Etheldreda, was, until the Fens were drained centuries later, surrounded by marshes. It was here that Hereward the Wake made his stand against William the Conqueror; it was also here that Oliver Cromwell lived between 1636-1646.

The modern Ely is much changed, yet retains the medieval street plan, narrow alleys and half-timbered buildings of the old. Apparently there is, on Thursdays and Saturdays, also a vibrant outdoor market which has been in operation for 800 years.

As we wander down the High Street, we note the inflections of chain stores amid the independent businesses — in one of which we stop for a coffee and snack. People often lament the rise of chains like Waterstones or Caffe Nero or Paul almost as a kind of bondage. For me, they signify an alternative history, providing continuity and certainty no matter where in the UK you visit.

We’d like to have experienced the haunted bedroom in Cromwell’s house, spent more time walking along the river and Jubilee Gardens, visited Ely Museum or enjoyed afternoon tea at Peacocks Tearoom.

But we have little time and a long drive still ahead of us. So it’s onwards to Ely Cathedral — the Ship of the Fens, or, to give it its full official title, the Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity.

A feat of engineering and art, the Octagon Tower and Lantern were designed by Alan of Walsingham after the original tower collapsed in 1322. It does not disappoint, its hard-won graceful elegance immediately arresting.

Neither does the rest of this Romanesque and Gothic edifice — it was constructed over 1000 years — disappoint. No matter how many images or films you’ve seen of it, not matter how many books you’ve read, nothing prepares you for the symphony of colour and light which assails you. I’m reminded of Chartres, of Sainte-Chapelle, of Sagrada Familia.

Unexpected pleasures abound, including the UK’s only museum dedicated to stained glass, with exquisite works stretching from medieval times to the present; and the 14th-century Lady Chapel, the largest in the UK and boasting gravity-defying fan vaulting.

Sir Humphrey Burton masterfully filmed Bernstein’s Mahler performance. Actor and director Bradley Cooper reconstructed the closing moments for Maestro, his 2023 biopic of the composer. Therefore, I have at least an idea of how the combined sounds of orchestra and chorus must have filled this space.

As I stand here now, I imperfectly recall a line from the final chorus: “With wings I won in love’s striving I’ll rise to the light.” And get a new appreciation for how that feels.

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